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Beautiful Madeira, the island of eternal springtime

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Continue shopping Checkout Continue shopping. Chi ama i libri sceglie Kobo e inMondadori. Preview saved Save Preview View Synopsis. Phoebe's Phenomenal Phallus by Johannes Lowe. Choose Store. That push-pull defines much of the episode, as the slippery, shades-of-grey nature of corruption envelops all and feels unavoidable. I enjoy the odd coupling of Ani and Ray, two extreme and damaged people who cope in similar and yet incredibly different ways, but perhaps where Nic Pizzolatto drops the ball the most is in their all-too-brief conversation about feminism — Ray says he supports feminism because he has body image issues, which may be the most bizarre line ever spoken on this series.

Like all flaws, his come from deep insecurity, and his way of relating to the world, to conflicts, and to other people is through his own problems. He relates to his son through the brutality his ex-wife endured and the pain he — not she — endured because of it. She works in a male-dominated field, fighting against criminals who are predominantly male. On Madeira, the black lava bathing pools of Porto Moniz are just about as far as you can get from the island capital, Funchal.

Until recently, it took several hours of twisting mountain road to get there. Now they are reachable in just 50 minutes thanks to a network of highways and tunnels cut through the rocky heart of the island. The road building has been criticized for its environmental impact, but it's brought the extremities of the island within easy reach of travelers.

At Porto Moniz, the meeting of Atlantic waves and some prehistoric volcanic eruption formed spiky rings of black lava rock along the waterfront. They've been turned into one of the world's weirdest and most beautiful swimming baths. More than 4, square yards of clear, calm saltwater pools, separated from raging ocean surf by the lava walls. A network of hiking trails follow more than 1, miles 2, kilometers of narrow stone irrigation channels known as levadas criss-crossing Madeira's mountainous countryside. Many lead into the Laurisilva forest, a remnant of the semi-tropical vegetation that covered the island before Portuguese explorers arrived in One of the most scenic is the Levada do Caldeirao Verde, which meanders four miles past leafy glades and plunging ocean views before emerging into a clearing sprinkled by a foot 91 meters waterfall.

Flower sellers dressed in traditional rainbow-hued skirts. Fish merchants wielding machetes to slice torpedo-sized tuna. Funchal's Mercado dos Lavradores farmers' market is a spectacle. The fish is fabulous, but fruit is the main attraction. Just about anything grows here.

Island bananas are packed with flavor and there's a baffling variety of passion fruit; papaya, custard apples and something resembling a phallic pine cone called monstera deliciosa it tastes like banana crossed with pineapple. A couple of hours away by the daily ferry, or 15 minutes by plane, Madeira's little sister boasts a six-mile stretch of pure golden sand arcing around a bay of crystalline water.

The island of 5, people buzzes in summer when Madeirans pop over to soak up the rays. Out of season, there's little to disturb the landscape of bare conical hills or the sleepy harbor town, where it's possible to visit the supposed one-time home of Christopher Columbus, who married the governor's daughter. It's impossible to miss these nightmarish denizens of the deep laid out in the market. Shiny black snake-like things with bulging eyes and wolfish jaws. Black scabbard fish is Madeira's favorite seafood.

The firm white flesh is served everywhere -- often in unlikely combinations with fried bananas.

Next door to the market, the marble-fronted Snack Bar Coca Cola serves a legendary sandwich that squeezes scabbard fish marinated with onion and vinegar into a bolo do caco -- a typical Madeiran flat loaf. The fancier food isn't bad either. Madeira's restaurants are fast building an international gourmet reputation. Il Gallo d'Oro in Funchal's Cliff Bay hotel picked up its second Michelin star in the edition and the tire-maker's guide gave a first star to the glamorous William restaurant in Reid's hotel.

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The restaurant sits on a lick of land at the foot of cliffs towering meters feet above. It's reached only by boat, or a precipitous cable car descent. Palm-shaded tables look out over a pebble beach. All around are gardens that supply organic fruit and vegetables. Modern travelers aiming to truly get away from it all can book a stay at one of seven restored houses at the foot of the cliff. Funchal has plenty of large-scale ocean-front hotels, but an alternative is staying in a quinta.